The Professional Nose
Posted Apr 30, 2008
Sommelier at the Cellars-Hohenort, Miguel Chan, on selecting the best wine in a restaurant.
What makes a good sommelier? A good sommelier is not just a salesman who works your bill. I see myself as a wine ambassador and I'm always aware of the desires of the diner. A sommelier really shines when there are four dishes ordered and one right wine is needed.
So, what's a good match to seared ostrich with wasabi mash?
A bone-dry Riesling at three to four years of age. Riesling is very versatile, and a slightly older one gives it the structure to stand up to the meat. A red wine will be destroyed by the wasabi.
Okay, what about braaied snoek with jam? Not a red; a fruity, dry rose, like a Pinotage rose.
Should you ever feel awkward about ordering the cheapest bottle on a winelist? No. On a good list, each wine has been selected on merit and the establishment is pleased to offer it.
Should you always decant a red? People think old wine should be decanted, but this is a myth. Often, they don't improve, but are killed. For a young wine, it's a good idea. Another way to reveal the complexity of a young wine is to open the bottle before you go to work and leave it. The gradual air penetration over eight or so hours does wonders.
How important is the shape of the glass? You don't need a different glass for every wine, but a good glass has the right shape. It should be decent in size and tulip-shaped, and there are many ranges available at decent prices. Don't get glasses with a rolled rim as the wine goes to the wrong place in the mouth when you sip. And don't use a "white wine" glass for your complex whites; rather use a large red one to enjoy its complexities.
What are the hallmarks of a good wine? A wine must have balance. If a wine is from a warm climate, like ours, it can afford to have a higher alcohol level because this won't be out of balance with the fruit and tannin.
Miguel Chan recently snagged fourth place in the International Young Sommelier competition held in Frankfurt.
